Wine is not just a mere beverage for the Gagauz, but it is rather an element of the people’s material and spiritual culture.
The Gagauz were practicing winemaking even back in times when they used to live on the territory of Dobrogea. In the 19th century when they settled in Bessarabia, they continued this activity on the arid soils of Bugeac. Most often, the Gagauz planted the vine varieties Zaiber and Cuderca, this choice being influenced by the climate conditions in the Southern regions of the country.
Traditionally, there were several types of wine produced by the Gagauz. Aci Sarap – is a bitter tasting type of wine to which absinth was added. It was mainly used for treatment purposes.
Besides that, a ceremonial wine variety was also produced of the first pressed wine. This wine was only served on special occasions when the guests arrived. The process of ceremonial wine production was a rather complicated one: after fermentation an amount of fresh grape juice is added. The wine would thus become sweet and with an intense flavor.
According to historians, the main aspect that makes the difference is that Gagauz would never drink the wine earlier than 40 days from the moment of its production. It is known that the Moldovans do have such a tradition of consuming the young “greasy” wines. “Here it was never traditionally practiced. If somebody violated this rule it would stir criticism,” said Andrei Mutcoglo, historian, head of the Historical and Cultural Centre “Stepan Topal”, Comrat. Today, old traditional wines may be tasted in the wineries of the Gagauz autonomy, where the winemakers strictly respect the traditions passed from generation to generation. Traditionally, the wine may be tasted at the beginning of November when Wine Day is celebrated in the autonomy.
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When the Gagauz cut the vine, they had to sprinkle it with the wine of the previous year also drinking that wine there in the vineyard. That ritual was considered to help for a reach harvest.
Andrei Mutcoglo, historian, head of the Centre of history and culture “Stepan Topal” in Comrat
This material was developed in the framework of the project “Supporting institutionalized and sustainable dialogue on Gagauzia Autonomy”, implemented by CMI – Martti Ahtisaari Peace Foundation and financed by Sweden. The opinions expressed in this material pertain to the authors and do not necessarily represent the position of CMI or of Sweden.